Pastis remains the quintessential Meatpacking District experience, a restaurant that somehow manages to feel both nostalgic and entirely relevant. Keith McNally’s famed French bistro has retained its soul despite the neighborhood’s transformation around it, offering a slice of Paris that feels authentic rather than theme-parky.

The menu delivers exactly what you want from a French brasserie – classics executed with consistency and respect for tradition. The steak frites arrives with a perfectly seasoned, crusty exterior giving way to a rosy interior, accompanied by some of the city’s best fries. The onion soup gratinée, with its deeply caramelized broth and cap of bubbling Gruyère, remains the ideal remedy for a chilly evening.

What truly distinguishes Pastis is the unmistakable energy of the space. The amber lighting flatters everyone, the zinc bar bustles with regulars sipping Burgundy, and the tiled floor and vintage mirrors transport you to another continent without feeling contrived. Weekend brunch has become something of a scene, but midweek lunch offers a more civilized experience.

Yes, it’s perpetually packed and the prices reflect the prime real estate, but Pastis delivers that rare combination of reliable food, transportive atmosphere, and the ineffable feeling that you’re exactly where you should be in New York. Some classics endure for good reason.