Lupa is that quintessential Village Italian spot that makes you wonder why you bother eating Italian food anywhere else in the city. Tucked away on Thompson Street, this Mario Batali original has gracefully evolved beyond its celebrity chef origins to become something more enduring – a neighborhood institution that feels both timeless and consistently fresh.

The Roman-inspired menu hits all the comfort notes you want while still managing to surprise. Their bucatini all’Amatriciana has that perfect balance of pork, tomato, and heat that makes you slow down and savor each bite. The saltimbocca is a masterclass in restraint – just veal, prosciutto, and sage, executed with such precision that it reminds you how powerful simplicity can be in the right hands.

What makes Lupa special after all these years is its unpretentious confidence. The staff knows the menu inside out but never lectures, the rustic space feels lived-in rather than designed, and the energy buzzes without overwhelming conversation. The wine list leans into interesting Italian options at surprisingly reasonable prices.

In a city where restaurants come and go with alarming frequency, Lupa’s staying power isn’t just about nostalgia – it’s because they consistently nail the basics while keeping things interesting enough to warrant repeat visits. It’s the rare restaurant that feels special without trying too hard.