San Matteo offers a taste of Naples that stands out even in New York’s crowded pizza landscape.

This Upper East Side gem feels like a neighborhood secret, with its warm, unpretentious atmosphere and friendly staff who make regulars out of first-timers. What makes San Matteo truly special is their dedication to authentic Neapolitan techniques – the wood-fired oven turns out pizzas with that perfect leopard-spotted crust, slightly charred and wonderfully chewy. Their Diavola pie hits all the right notes with spicy sopressata that curls up into crispy cups, holding little pools of olive oil and heat that balance perfectly against the creamy fior di latte.

Beyond pizza, their panuozzi – sandwich-like creations made with pizza dough – are a revelation. Stuffed with combinations like prosciutto, arugula and fresh mozzarella, they make for a satisfying lunch that feels both familiar and entirely new.

What’s most compelling about San Matteo is how it manages to capture that elusive feeling of a true Italian meal – unhurried, generous, and centered on simple ingredients prepared with expert care. The modest space encourages lingering over a final glass of wine or espresso. While the neighborhood locals might prefer to keep this place to themselves, it’s worth traveling across town for a meal that reminds you why Italian food, when done right, never goes out of style.